Friday, August 26, 2011

Angle Plan

Picked up angle today from a local steel place, $30 for 6 metres, not bad, all that needs to be done now is some holes drilled into it then it can be placed in the case

The steel is only 2mm thich although heavy the weight should balance out in the case, good casters will be required.

4x Handles have also been purchased to also go on the sides for lifting and easy rolling around.


Thursday, August 25, 2011

Case Construction Issue!

Well working on the frame at home went well, except I literally made the width 500mm which meant that there was no room for ply sides or for it to move in and out of the case freely. 

So I added some cut thin 3mm ply pieces to one sides frame joints to increase the width a little!

Only a slight issue, remember there needs to be some clearance for them to slide in and out... now to order the angle...

Case Construction Commences

Well after being informed class time is limited, I used some of Dad left over Pine to create the case. 

There are no real joints for this one, just straight butt to butt and liquid nails, and a screw!

I pre drilled some parts to get a tight bond, so that the piece behind is brought forward to the top piece's back making the screw just pop through the pre drilled hole gripping into the back piece,

Below are construction photos at home, cut with a bench saw which I had to read up on to learn how to use. Safety Glasses and an apron is recommended! 

Mark :)

Support Problems!

There is nothing like having to remove a corner support that had been liquid nailed and screwed in because of a fault with the leggz nut, I split the side of the frame.

Caution be careful removing things that have been lequid nailed for a while eg. 3 days!

I am in the process of putting in a support, liquid nailing the split and modifying just that corner support. 

Mark - not such a good post!

Corner Supports

Working on making corner supports is not as easy as first thought!

Firstly you need to work out how big the support has to be and then where the holes have to go in the side of the module so you can drill the screws into the side of the frame and through into the support.

You need to work out the size of support, then I used 45x45mm pine and at 45 degrees each end cut them all to the same sizing for all 32 corners of the modules

 I made up a template to sit on the side of the frame to keep everything uniform and less marking out and mucking about. 

Monday, August 8, 2011


Now to the little idea from Phillip Island and District Railway Modellers modular layout, to have the legs being able to screw into the modules.

So I went down to bunnings warehouse, and spoke to a bloke in there about my idea.  Hoping I didnt talk in riddles about my concept...

He put me onto the brand called Leggz unfortunately I cant get a website, but these little furniture studs are fantastic, basically a little nut (similar to) with some grips gets hammered on top of either the underneath or the leg top and then a little screw/bolt gets screwed into the opposite bit eg the leg top, and there we have it a easy screw the legs onto the module when required then all we do is unscrew them once we are finished.

Sorry if thats not making sense ill try and get some more photo up!

A pack of 4 are around $10 (that is either a pack of bolts with the grips, or the screw/bolt rod)


*Update 2013 May. - I would not recommend these for long legs or at all.. they come loose and wreck the timber. 

Legs Finished!

Ive been busy with routering all 16 legs 45x45mm Pine, to have a rounded edge for safety and a smooth clean finish, setting the amount the router takes away so that we are not creating a lip or edge is the key to get a smooth finish, a little bit of sanding in some spots and these legs are ready!

Next onto the little bits that keep the legs and modules together...